Many front-drive pulleys and kits are available from the aftermarket to suit a particular LS engine setup and accessory arrangement. Obviously, the LS engine was not designed specifically for first- or second-generation F-Body engine swaps. However, this engine series delivers exceptional performance, and with the correct complement of parts and some chassis modifications to the F-Body, it has proven to be an excellent power plant to replace the stock engine. In addition, you need to make a few minor adjustments to your car so it can have every major modern luxury that even the new fifth-generation F-Body is allowed. Fitting power steering, alternator, and even A/C components have all been worked out through a variety of methods using stock modern brackets.
There seems to be a lot of confusion about which accessories are compatible with which engines. The typical items that are hung on the front of the engine are the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, and A/C unit.
This is another variant to the front-drive accessory from Street & Performance. Both the alternator and the A/C unit are positioned very low, and this provides the “tight” look some people want. The LS platform allows for a variety of combinations to suit any need. (Photo Courtesy Street & Performance)
This tech tip is from the full book, SWAP LS ENGINES INTO CAMAROS & FIREBIRDS: 1967-1981.
For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link: LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
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There are a few choices when it comes to obtaining and putting together a front-drive accessories kit. One is to head off to the local junkyard and start pulling parts. You save some money and get everything you need. However, I’ve found that in junkyard crawls, most of the components have either sat too long and collected a fair amount of rust, have been damaged by someone else who was less careful than I am, or that major components are missing.
To me it’s a compromise. You certainly save a lot of money if you go the junkyard route. Used accessories and pulleys don’t look shiny and new, like a full billet aluminum set from March Performance. The drawback is that you don’t know what works and what doesn’t until the time comes to fire it up. You also don’t get the prettiest of parts so you may have to spend some time cleaning up the accessories. If you do go this route, I strongly recommend pulling more than you need, such as the bolts and brackets. The LS drive system uses some specially sized bolts that might be difficult to find at a local hardware store. Also, take note that the three styles (Camaro, Corvette, and Truck) are not necessarily interchangeable, which means you might be limited in finding parts if your local yard doesn’t have a lot of Corvettes in stock, for example.
The other side of the equation is buying new. Lots of options are out there to fit your needs. General Motors sells full kits with brackets, bolts, components, and belts for about $700 to $1,000. With these you typically get a warranty and the knowledge that the parts are brand new. You might not be able to save as much money, but you get a set of instructions, unlike pulling them off a wrecked car. Again, the compromise comes down to time versus money: How much of each are you willing to give up?
Camaro, Corvette, Truck and GM Kits
For the first- and second-generation F-Body, the Corvette accessory kit is most likely the best option as it moves the alternator and power steering pump into a location that does not interfere with the front K-member. This creates a new problem to resolve. The A/C pump that is located on the passenger’s side in the low position must be relocated. You don’t have to install or use an A/C system so that resolves the fitment problem, but for many, A/C is an absolute must. Using the Camaro, Corvette, or the truck kit, you shouldn’t run into clearance issues with the radiator, assuming you’ve got the engine in the stock location.
A number of kits can be found at the junkyard or from a dealership, such as Scoggin-Dickey. Many owners use the Corvette-style drive kit because it gets the alternator out of the way. The various kits have major differences so once you decide on a kit, you are committed to that style. As a result, you’re not able to interchange pieces and pulleys because the configurations are unique. Chevrolet Performance carries many of these kits.
The typical first-generation F-Body is most happy with the Corvette-style belt routing as it allows the alternator to be mounted high on the driver’s side, well away from the frame and front steering components. In the second-generation F-Body, the alternator is low on the driver’s side, which works provided you have clearance for the pitman arm. Due to tolerances, you may have absolutely no interference and in other instances you may have to shave a little bit off the pitman arm bolts for full lock-to-lock steering.
Most owners don’t run the truck accessories for several reasons, but chiefly it seems that they don’t like the appearance of the accessories so far away from the engine. In some instances with various radiator and fan combinations, you may run into a lack of working space.
Chevrolet Performance LS2/LS3/LS7
The LS2/LS3/LS7 front kit is similar to the Corvette C5 kit. It moves the alternator up and away from the frame and it’s great for LS swappers. This kit also puts the A/C compressor low and on the passenger’s side, which does interfere with all first- and second-generation F-Body frames. You can, of course, forego the A/C compressor entirely and skip that problem. Be aware that is it not possible to reuse the VVT timing cover due to space constraints.
Front Accessory Drive Installation
Step 1:
My accessory kit is from Scoggin-Dickey. It is the late-model Corvette style that calls for PN 1915506. I recommend the Corvette kit because it moves the alternator up and out of the way compared to the F-Body style. This is the kit that includes all the hardware and parts for the A/C compressor and bracket. This includes the nuts and bolts, clamps, PS pump, alternator, brackets, and belts. Beats sifting through 1 a muddy junkyard.
Step 2:
The A/C bracket and unit are installed with a couple more bolts.
Step 3:
Near the massive alternator bracket is a series of bolts and an L-shaped bracket for the power steering assembly to clip onto. These have a specific order in which they are assembled, so be sure to keep the instruction book handy. With this setup, the brackets come first, then the power steering pump, followed by the alternator. The power steering pump has a bolt that goes through the pulley so make sure to install it.
Step 4:
The power steering reservoir and pump need to be installed as one unit; this allows you to make sure the reservoir tube is securely connected to the pump. The reservoir attaches to the pump through a small hose with small pressure clamps. They aren’t delicate, but they also can’t take a beating so care is needed when moving them. The pump came with the pulley already installed; this is a pressed-on piece and requires a special pulley remover if I want to replace it.
Step 5:
Seen through the spokes of the power steering pulley, a few extra bolts need to be installed with another L-shaped bracket (shown). This time, the bracket is aluminum.
Step 6:
Use a socket and ratchet to tighten the two bolts that fasten the alternator to the bracket.
Step 7:
Every serpentine system requires the use of a belt tensioner. If you haven’t seen an engine in the past 20 years or so, this little guy keeps the right amount of belt tension on the system with an internal coil-wound spring. There is no adjustment for these belt tensioners. If they fail, they typically fail in the loose configuration, which is a telltale squealing from the belt during most of the operating RPM range.
Step 8:
If you look closely, you can see that I made a major mistake. I incorrectly measured the crankshaft balancer and ordered the wrong kit. The balancer sticks out too far for the front-drive kit and would instantly throw the belt off if I could even get it on. Essentially, I have to replace the balancer to make it work.
Step 9:
Replacing the balancer bolt can be difficult because it has a high torque spec. Use an impact wrench or a breaker bar to remove this bolt.
Step 10:
Once the balancer bolt has been removed, carefully install the balancer puller. Position the arms of the puller to engage the balancer and thread the puller bolt until it firmly snugs up against the crankshaft snout. Once it’s snug, use a breaker bar to tighten the puller and drive the balancer off the crankshaft taper. Remove the balancer one turn at a time. You can damage the internal threads on the crank, so make sure you use the correct leverage method for your puller.
Step 11:
Probably the most useful stock kit on the market is the LS2/LS3 front-drive kit. It moves the alternator up and out of the way. The one drawback is that this kit uses the balancer that is closest to the block, making you come up with a creative way to route power steering lines. (Illustration Courtesy Nook & Tranny)
Chevrolet Performance CTS-V/GTO/ G8/LS6/LS2
You can get these pulleys from junkyard engines and use them on most LS engines. This kit can be adapted to almost any block/head combination, but you need to pull the balancer and pulley off the particular engine so the entire group properly matches. This kit typically comes on LS2 engines as well in the Pontiac G8, F-Body, and GTO.
Again, frame clearance is a problem for the A/C compressor. Notch the frame, move it out of the way with an aftermarket kit, or skip it. It’s your call.
LS9/LSA Front Kit
The LS9 front-drive kit is unique. Unfortunately, there are not a lot of alternative options out there for LS9 engines other than the GM kit (PN 19243524). The supercharger requires its own special belt and the routing of all the accessories. At the time of writing this, there are no alternatives for remounting the A/C compressor from its stock location. That means that you have to notch the frame on virtually all frame choices available, stock, or otherwise. Companies can and often notch it for you, but that typically involves a separate and extra cost. You can of course, notch it yourself as Mark Stielow has done on his 1969 Camaro “Red Devil,” if you are brave enough and have the correct skill and tools to complete the job. Chances are that if you are looking at putting the LS9 in your F-Body, you won’t mind the $1,800 price of the GM front-drive kit.
The CTS-V front drive requires significant modification to work with just about any platform. You have to watch out for frame clearance issues as well as suspension clearance problems. The A/C compressor runs off a separate belt that is behind the main longer belt. Even though the LS9 and CTS-V are similar in many ways, their front drive configurations are entirely different. (Illustration Courtesy Nook & Tranny)
The Camaro/Firebird/GTO front-drive setup can be used if you have room for the low-mounted alternator but most first- and second-generation F-Body swaps do not have enough room to mount it low. (Illustration Courtesy Nook & Tranny)
Balancers and Dampeners
To date there are three basic balancers that General Motors made at the factory: Corvette style, Camaro/ F-Body style, and truck dampener. General Motors did this mainly for space constraints. The major difference is the distance the belts are from the block when everything is fully installed. All dampeners fit the crank of the LS engine; it’s up to you to figure out the version you need.
Remember, you need to use the same type of accessories. In other words, you cannot use a Corvette balancer with a truck power-steering pulley because the offset differs too much. You must also match the water pump pulley with the similar offset of the balancer. The Corvette and Camaro/F-Body style accepts the same water pump, but do not play well with the truck water pump pulley.
Here’s a quick comparison of crankshaft balancers. The longer one (left) is the Camaro style and the shorter one (right) is the Corvette style.
I bought the new ARP balancer bolt (PN 234-2503) on the right from Amazon. This should fit most, if not all, LS applications. The only difference is the 12-sided bolt head instead of the standard hex bolt.
Measuring the depth of your setup to see what style you have is fairly straightforward. Use a flat piece of metal against the balancer and measure to the front of the engine. Although the truck version may be easy to identify, the differences between the Corvette and F-Body version are not so readily apparent. (Photo Courtesy KWiK Performance)
Three different crankshaft dampeners fit the LS engine, which are the Corvette, Camaro/GTO/Firebird, and truck. All of these pulleys fit virtually any LS application. The determining factor is how close you want the accessories to hug the block. I chose to go with the Corvette kit to obtain adequate clearance and accessory packaging. With these pulleys, the accessories hug the block closely and it moves the alternator out of the way of the lower frame. The dampener on the Corvette typically mounts very close to the block, while the Camaro/F-body version has slightly more room. Naturally the truck having the most room is the farthest from the block. Use a tape measure and a straight edge to determine which dampener you have. Stick the tape measurer through the balancer to measure it from the front engine cover to the straight edge on the end of the balancer. The Corvette measures 21 ⁄8 inches, the Camaro/GTO/ Firebird is 215⁄16 inches, and the truck is 311⁄16 inches.
Installing a New Balancer
A swapping project is not precise science because there are differences in the engine equipment and accessories, and as a result many variables come into play. As part of that, there are countless combinations and many manufacturing variances from one F-Body car to another. It’s difficult to determine if all components for a particular build package are compatible with one another. Therefore, until you install all the components, you cannot definitely determine if all the pulleys, the A/C compressor, dampener, aluminum radiator, headers, ignition coils, and many other components properly fit and there’s adequate clearance.
For example, I got the wrong kit for the wrong dampener. I ended up replacing the balancer with the correct version. (We had a Corvette accessory drive kit and an F-Bodystyle balancer.)
To remove the old dampener correctly, you need two very important tools: a big three-jaw-style puller and a flywheel lock-down tool. If you don’t have one, you can use a pry bar, but I don’t recommend it.
This is the correct tool for doing anything with the crankshaft. It holds the teeth of the flywheel so you can tighten or loosen the crank bolt. This tool replaces the starter and bolts in using the existing bolt holes.
Use a torque wrench to install the new ARP crank bolt with 250
ft-lbs of force.
A three-jaw gear clamp helps remove the balancer in small increments. Some force here is necessary.
A breaker bar or impact gun with a 15/16-inch six-point socket is required to remove this bolt with traditional thread style. This factory bolt stretches so it’s recommended that you replace it with a new one on re-assembly.
Once the bolt has been removed, install the three-jaw puller over the dampener and tighten the puller end until the dampener pops off the crankshaft taper. You may have to use the old crank bolt as leverage. Once the balancer is out of the way is a good time to replace the seal if yours needs it.
Installing the new dampener isn’t very complicated. You need the proper tool or an M16 x 2.0-mm threaded rod and some washers with a nut. This exemplifies (once again) the need for proper tools for the right job. Just don’t use a block of wood and a hammer because you can damage the dampener and/or the crank snout.
You need to use the old crank bolt. Thread the old bolt to cinch the pulley into place by tightening it to 250 ft-lbs of torque. Now, remove it, install your new bolt, and follow the instructions. Mine is from ARP and uses a 12-point socket to torque to 250 ft-lbs.
Aftermarket Options
In another stroke of good luck for first- and second-generation F-Body owners, the aftermarket has many solutions for fitting front-drive accessories with a variety of equipment packages. While these may not be the most inexpensive options, they resolve many packaging and fitment issues. Most kits come with a power steering delete or an A/C delete option, but not both. For many kits, you also need to determine the compatible headers, frame, and mounts because these components can interfere with some of the front drive components.
Vintage Air
The high-quality Vintage Air Front-Runner System features a Sanden SD7 compressor with O-ring adapter blocks, which works well with their under-dash retro-fit A/C units. A Vintage Air kit comes with everything needed to mount your LS engine with the proper accessories. It moves the A/C compressor up and out of the frame location and moves the power-steering reservoir to the rear behind the belt. This is different than the stock front-drive kit that places the reservoir next to the alternator up high. These systems also come with options to delete the A/C pump or the power-steering pump, but not both. Vintage Air is probably the only kit that is able to retrofit just about any F-Body with A/C if yours didn’t come with one or you just really want to hide it under the dash.
Eddie Motorsports
Eddie Motorsports has several versions and options for LS front drive kit, which includes A/C or no A/C and power steering or no power steering, or all of the above. Like most kits, you can get Eddie’s S-Drive kit in polished or milled finished to fit your application. These kits use an ATI balancer so they can be used on all the LS variations, except the 4.8L version.
Complete kits contain an Edelbrock water pump, Sanden A/C compressor, Maval power-steering pump, and Powermaster 140-amp alternator. They are compatible with rack-and-pinion as well as gearbox steering systems. Eddie Motorsports says that they include $800 worth of brand-new parts in the kit.
This tech tip is from the full book, SWAP LS ENGINES INTO CAMAROS & FIREBIRDS: 1967-1981.
For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link: LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this article on Facebook, in Forums, or with any Clubs you participate in. You can copy and paste this link to share: https://www.lsenginediy.com/camaro-firebird-ls-swap-front-drive-accessory-guide/
The factory Camaro setup has a slight alteration on the lower A/C belt that has been converted to a single belt. It has been moved slightly to align with the rest of the accessories to run a single belt rather than two individual ones. You see how the older fourth-generation front-drive kit looks from this view. (Photo Courtesy Street & Performance)
Aftermarket kits, such as these, are plentiful. This is a chrome version from Street & Performance: they can make a system that is as tight to the engine or as loose to the engine as you want with just about any configuration of the accessories. Therefore, you can order a custom exhaust to fit about any special requirement for an equipment package. If an off-the-shelf accessory package won’t do, Street & Performance can build the correct system for you. (Photo Courtesy Street & Performance)
This version of the front-drive kit pushes the A/C and alternator out from under the engine and to the sides. Some like this look; others don’t. (Photo Courtesy Street & Performance)
Another variant of the LS family is this LS6 setup with the alternator placed up high. This setup is much more friendly to hot rodders and Camaro swappers. (Photo Courtesy Street & Performance)
The kits include all the 6061-T6 billet aluminum pulleys and brackets for all of the components. This setup moves the alternator up and out of the way and also relocates the A/C compressor into a much more friendly area, which makes this kit very agreeable to almost any build. A complete kit costs $2,400 and has all the necessary front-drive accessories and pulleys. It’s a very reasonable price, especially if you don’t have any front-drive parts. Not only does it dress up the engine bay, it solves all of the front-drive problems at once.
Texas Speed & Performance
Texas Speed & Performance probably has the widest range of variations to the front-drive system. They custom-make systems to fit almost any need. Some of their full kits bring all the accessories close to the engine block and others spread them out. It’s really up to you and what look you’re going for. You can choose virtually any placement of the components and you can even get custom colors if you ask them nicely.
KWiK Performance
Air compressors for the LSX version from General Motors uses a variable-displacement compressor so it only works as hard as it needs to and is required by the A/C cooling load requirement. This was designed to improve fuel economy as the A/C compressor robs the engine of a significant amount of power, thus requiring more fuel to compensate for the loss.
KWiK Performance says some of people run into problems when installing A/C systems with modern compressors and try to use the oldstyle control units in old cars. They recommend that you replace the newer-style compressor with a conventional Sanden compressor, which is a constant running type of pump. These compressors are also smaller in size and may fit better with the engine package in your F-Body.
The Sanden SD5 part numbers for this conversion are 4514, 4522, 4665, and 9537. Sanden makes a variety of compressors, so you should call them to make sure the particular compressor is compatible with your engine setup. The KWiK Performance A/C compressor has a six-groove pulley as opposed to the five-groove belt that is used on the GM setup. You can simply slide the belt over and align it to the correct five grooves on the pulley. Apply the correct amount of tension and the belt stays in position and operates reliably.
Air-Conditioning Relocation Kit Installation
Step 1:
This version of the LS kit allows for everything to be out of the way without sacrificing any room. It replaces virtually every piece from the stock kit and uses its own brackets, pumps, and pulleys. The A/C unit from a stock Camaro or Corvette is not a good candidate because it uses pulse modulation, which many aftermarket kits don’t use. A Sanden pump is a direct replacement.
Step 2:
KWiK Performance has this alternative setup for people with lots of hood clearance but a very narrow space.
Step 3:
I felt that I only needed the A/C unit kit from KWiK Performance seeing that the rest of the system fit quite well in my 1968 Camaro test vehicle. The kit comes with all the hardware, brackets, and other stuff you need for the job. The Sanden pump was a bit extra but worth it knowing I was getting the right part.
Step 4:
I replaced the tensioner pulley after unpacking the KWiK Performance A/C relocation kit. I simply threaded the tensioner pulley bolt onto the bracket and torqued it down.
Step 5:
I preassembled the brackets for a smoother install.
Step 6:
I’ve installed the brackets on the engine. This process is a bit tricky and the parts are precisely machined so it might be worth having another pair of hands.
Step 7:
A small washer (provided in the kit) was needed to align the belt pulleys. The washer/spacer was placed between the bracket and the block to push the pulleys slightly forward for a more positive alignment.
Step 8:
Be very careful at this stage. The bolts need to go on in a specific way with the spacers in the back. Once again, you need a second or third pair of hands. The bolts must go through the bracket and the spacers (in that order) for everything to align properly.
Step 9:
The tensioner needed a small spacer for proper alignment. Yours might align just fine or it might be like mine and need a spacer in certain places. This is typical for any installation, so keep a few handy.
Step 10:
This is the correct bolt pattern and spacer requirement for the pump. It helps to start with the lower bolts and then move to the upper ones.
Step 11:
Using a box-end wrench and a socket, I snugged everything down once I was happy with the location of the six-ribbed belt. The Sanden unit has a seven-ribbed pulley that works just fine with the belt.
Step 12:
I am ready to install a new belt on the new system. I like this setup as it uses one belt instead of two serpentine belts. I also had to tweak the pulley setup on the new A/C bracket. I had some clearance issues and had to change a few things. After only an hour, I was set.
Step 13:
I am ready to install a new belt on the new system. I like this setup as it uses one belt instead of two serpentine belts. I also had to tweak the pulley setup on the new A/C bracket. I had some clearance issues and had to change a few things. After only an hour, I was set.
If you choose to forego the power steering on your vehicle (I highly discourage it) KWiK Performance has you covered. At left is a diagram of the dimensions and on the right is a good look at the final outcome. (Illustrations Courtesy KWiK Performance)
This accessory drive kit from KWiK Performance has the adjustability and the adaptability that’s suitable for most LS engine swap projects. The KWiK system is a universal system that moves the major components away from the frame and suspension components. The drawback is that the accessories are moved upward, which can be slightly detrimental to performance. The system uses one long belt instead of two belts as with the factory setup. (Photo Courtesy KWiK Performance)
You have a lot of adjustability with this accessory drive setup. You relocate the A/C compressor and accessory pulleys to make space for various components.
Helpful Hints
It should go without saying, but it’s usually best to install the accessories after the engine is firmly between the frame rails. You save weight, but also you reduce the amount of mistakes you can make by breaking something.
When installing a kit, it’s fairly common to install the water pump and dampener before any other accessories. A few of the bolts in the power-steering assembly require the bolts to be installed through holes on the pulley; make sure you lay everything out and in order.
This almost goes without saying, but having the correct tools is a lifesaver. This belt tensioner bar makes life easier in really tight spaces. That said, your LS install should create plenty of room. These tools are readily available at any parts store for roughly $20.
I had to try a number of belts to get it just right. I used a piece of string to came up with the correct measurement. You might have to find a belt between 1,000 and 1,020 mm to fit your pulleys. Of course, you can just use this belt (PN 12636226) if you plan to skip the A/C all together.
For example, I had to remove the power-steering pulley to access the high-pressure hose. Had I been smarter, I would have figured this part out before installing it. It would have been a lot easier than having to buy a pulley puller and learning how to use it.
The return hose on the power-steering reservoir is a 3/8-inch out-barbed fitting. You may need an adapter on the steering box or rack. Make sure that whatever adapter you get has a matching 3/8-inch barb fitting. The pressure side requires a custom-made hose with the correct pressure hose that can withstand the higher pressures. These are typically made from -6AN line and hose ends. There are also other options for making this work such as having a local machine shop make you custom hoses.
Written by Eric McClellan and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks
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